Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
